Europe

Travel To Relax – Highlights of Paris Eiffel and Monet to Crme Brle

Highlights of Paris Eiffel and Monet to Crme BrleHI I’M RICK STEVES BACK WITH. MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE. THIS TIME, WE’RE EXPLORING
THE WONDERS OF PARIS, MAGNIFICENT AND, THANKS
TO MONSIEUR EIFFEL, RIVETING. TO ME PARIS IS THE CAPITAL.

OF EUROPE. IT’S THE CITY I CAN RETURN TO
MORE THAN ANY OTHER, WITH GRAND MONUMENTS
THAT NEED NO INTRODUCTION, AND IT HIDES A LIFETIME
OF CULTURAL DELIGHTS. <Font IS WITHIN EASY REACH</font> <font OF THIS GREAT CITY,</font> <font OF THE EIFFEL TOWER</font> <font OF NOTRE DAME.</Font> <font AND DREAMY IMPRESSIONISM</font> <font DINING ON FRENCH FAVORITES.</Font> SO YOU STAB IT? YES.

<Font IN THE CATACOMBS,</font> <font THE FRENCH REVOLUTION</font> <font SPLITS THE CITY</font> <font AND THE LEFT BANK.</Font> <font IN 1889 TO CELEBRATE. THE 100th ANNIVERSARY
OF THE FRENCH REVOLUTION. AND TO SHOW OFF
AT A WORLD’S FAIR. IT WAS A MUSCULAR SYMBOL
OF THE INDUSTRIAL AGE.

<Font HOOKED ON TECHNOLOGY,</font> <font AND MAN’S INGENUITY.</Font> <font HAS THREE OBSERVATION LEVELS.</Font> <font THE MORE YOU PAY.</Font> <font IS PLENTY HIGH.</Font> <font AND MILLIONS OF RIVETS,</font> <font IN JUST OVER TWO YEARS.</Font> <font AN EXCLAMATION POINT,</font> <font INDEPENDENT SPIRIT</font> <font ACROSS THE RIVER,</font> <font TO VIEW THE TOWER</font> <i> AND TO CHECK OUT</i>
A COLORFUL SCENE. <I> PARISIANS OWN THEIR CITY.</I> <i> IN FACT, TWICE A WEEK</i>
STREETS ARE CLOSED. <I> AND THOUSANDS TURN OUT</i>
TO ROLL THROUGH THEIR CITY. <I> IN AN EXUBERANT CELEBRATION</i>
OF LIFE.

<I> PARIS WAS BORN</i>
CENTURIES BEFORE CHRIST, <i> RIGHT HERE</i>
ON THE ILE de la CITE, <i> AN ISLAND IN THE MIDDLE</i>
OF THE SEINE RIVER. <I> THE ROMANS CONQUERED THE LOCAL</i>
FISHING TRIBE AND SET UP CAMP. <I>TODAY, THE NOTRE DAME CATHEDRAL</i>
MARKS THE PLACE. <I> WHERE A ROMAN TEMPLE</i>
ONCE STOOD.

<I> THE CITY’S FIRST BISHOP,</i>
ST. DENNIS, <i> HOLDS HIS HEAD IN HIS HANDS.</I> <i> WHEN CHRISTIANITY</i>
BEGAN MAKING CONVERTS HERE, <i> THE PAGAN ROMANS BEHEADED HIM.</I> <i> BUT, ACCORDING TO LEGEND,</i>
DENNIS JUST PICKED UP HIS HEAD. <I> AND KEPT ON GOING.</I> <i> INSPIRED BY THIS MIRACLE,</i>
CHRISTIANITY FLOURISHED. <I> AND THE TEMPLE WAS REPLACED</i>
BY A CHURCH.

<I>IMAGINE THE FAITH OF THE PEOPLE</i>
WHO BUILT THIS, <i> BREAKING GROUND IN 1163</i>
ON A BUILDING. <I> WHICH WOULDN’T BE FINISHED</i>
FOR 200 YEARS. <I> GOTHIC ARCHITECTS INCORPORATED</i>
THE LATEST TECHNOLOGY: <i> FLYING BUTTRESSES TO SUPPORT</i>
THE HEAVY ROOFTOP. <I> ITS GHOULISH GARGOYLES</i>
MULTI-TASK: <i> THEY SERVE AS FANCY RAINSPOUTS</i> <i> AND SCARE AWAY</i>
THE EVIL SPIRITS.

<I> THE CHURCH IS DEDICATED</i>
TO OUR LADY, OR NOTRE DAME. <I> MARY CRADLES THE BABY JESUS;</i> <i> THE ROSE WINDOW PROVIDES</i>
A MAJESTIC HALO. THE VIRGIN MARY
WAS HIGHLY REVERED. THROUGHOUT THE MIDDLE AGES.

THE FAITHFUL PETITIONED HER
IN TIMES OF TROUBLE. FOR BOTH COMFORT AND, THROUGH
HER INTERVENTION, ***’S MERCY. <I>AS WORSHIPPERS HEADED FOR MASS,</i> <i> THEY’D WALK UNDER A RELIEF</i>
OF JUDGMENT DAY. <I> CHRIST SITS ON HIS THRONE.</I> <i> THE TRUMPET SOUNDS.</I> <i> ALL ARE JUDGED:</i> <i> PEASANTS, KNIGHTS, NOBLES,</i>
ROYALS, EVEN BISHOPS.

<I> AN ANGEL WEIGHS</i>
CUTE LITTLE SOULS. <I> WHILE CHEATING DEMONS</i>
YANK ON THE SCALES. <I> THE SAVED STAND HAPPILY</i>
AT CHRIST’S RIGHT HAND… <I> …THE DAMNED, A SORRY</i>
CHAIN GANG, ARE ON HIS LEFT.

<I> CARVINGS LIKE THAT,</i> <i> AND LIKE THIS SCENE OF EVE</i>
TEMPTING ADAM WITH AN APPLE, <i> REMIND US THAT THIS ART</i>
WAS MORE THAN DECORATION. <I> THESE IMAGES REINFORCED</i> <i> THE STORIES PEOPLE</i>
LEARNED IN CHURCH. <I> WHILE THE CHURCH</i>
IS DEDICATED TO MARY, <i> THE REST OF PARIS SEEMS</i>
DEDICATED TO REGULAR PARISIANS. <I> THE OLD CENTER,</i>
WITH ITS TWO ISLANDS.

<I> IN THE MIDDLE OF THE SEINE,</i>
RETAINS A CHARMING ELEGANCE. <I> THE ILE de la CITE IS LADEN</i>
WITH HISTORIC SIGHTS. <I> BUT THE LITTLE ILE ST. LOUIS,</i> <i> CONNECTED</i>
BY A PEDESTRIAN BRIDGE, <i>IS LADEN ONLY WITH THE DELIGHTS</i>
OF GOOD LIVING.

ARNAUD. OH, RICK. <I> a va.</I> <i> a va bien.</I> <i> I’M RENDEZVOUSING</i>
WITH MY PARISIAN FRIEND. <I> AND FELLOW TOUR GUIDE,</i>
ARNAUD SERVIGNAT.

GREAT ISLAND. YEAH, THIS IS
ILE ST. LOUIS, RICK. I LOVE THIS PLACE.

YOU KNOW, ALL AROUND IN THIS
REALLY UNIFORM ARCHITECTURE, EVERYTHING DATING
FROM THE 17th CENTURY, AND THE BEAUTIFUL
APARTMENTS — VERY EXPENSIVE, THE MOST
EXPENSIVE IN TOWN — AND I WISH I COULD HAVE
AN APARTMENT HERE, IF I COULD AFFORD IT. THIS IS VERY TRENDY
TO LIVE HERE? OH, MY ***, WONDERFUL. AND ALL ALONG THE STREETS
YOU’VE GOT SOME GALLERIES, QUAINT LITTLE BOUTIQUES
AND RESTAURANTS, AND JUST DOWN THE STREET
THERE IS A PLACE, BERTHILLON, WHERE YOU HAVE THE BEST
SORBETS IN PARIS. REALLY? YEAH.

YES, THE ISLAND
IS CHARMING, BUT THE WHOLE CITY
OF PARIS IS CHARMING. IN FACT, IT FACES
THE RIVER SEINE, AND THE RIVER SEINE HAS
BEEN CALLED BY PARISIANS, “THE MIRROR OF THE CITY.” IT’S A GREAT
PEOPLE ZONE. YEAH, YOU KNOW,
PEOPLE STROLLING. YEAH.

WANDERING AROUND. FESTIVALS HERE? YES, INDEED. ON THE BASTILLE DAY
WE HAVE A BIG PARTY HERE, BIG DANCING ORGANIZED. DANCING.

DANCING ALL
AROUND THE PLACE. AND TODAY IT’S
JUST SO RELAXED. SO WHAT IS THE FRENCH WORD
FOR THESE LITTLE STALLS? <I> Bouquinistes,</i>
WE CALL THEM.  IT COMES FROM THE NAME
bouquin, WHICH IS OLD FRENCH.

OKAY, SO OLD BOOKS
IN OLD FRENCH. OLD BOOKS, YES. AND THEY SELL
PRINTS, YOU KNOW. AND IT GOES BACK
A LONG TIME? OH, BACK TO THE
1600s, YES, INDEED.

THERE WERE, YOU KNOW,
VERY WILD VENDORS. WHICH WERE ALL ALONG THE
RIVER SEINE LIKE THAT. AND THEY HAD TO BE REGULATED
IN THE 19th CENTURY. BECAUSE THEY WERE SO WILD.

IT’S JUST A CLASSIC
PARISIAN SCENE. IT HAS, YOU KNOW, KIND
OF A BOHEMIAN LIFE-STYLE. <I> I’M TAKING ARNAUD TO LUNCH.</I> <i> AGAINST HIS ADVICE,</i> <i> I’M EATING ALL THE PARISIAN</i>
CUISINE CLICHS IN ONE MEAL. THIS IS A<i> kir,</i> YOU KNOW, A GOOD
CIVILIZED WAY TO START A MEAL.

SO IT’S AN APERITIF? MM-HMM. TELL ME ABOUT
THE APERITIF. APERITIF IS TO
OPEN YOUR APPETITE. ESCARGOT.

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ESCARGOT. OH, RICK,
LOOK AT THAT. IT LOOKS NICE. <I> Merci.</I> <i> Soupe al’Oignon.</I> SO THIS IS THE
FIRST COURSE? YES, THIS IS
THE ENTRE.

AND ACTUALLY, YOU GUYS CALL
THE ENTRE THE MAIN COURSE, WHEN THE ENTRE IS
THE STARTER IN FRANCE. THAT MAKES SENSE,
ACTUALLY. OKAY, I HAVE
MY ESCARGOT. AND I JUST USE THIS? <I> Alors,</i> YES.

SO YOU STAB IT? YES. THEN YOU TWIST IT OUT. IT COMES OUT EVENTUALLY. VERY CHEWY, YOU WILL SEE.

OH, THAT’S GOOD. GOOD, HUH? GARLIC, PARSLEY. A LOT OF TOURISTS DON’T WANT
THE ESCARGOT, BUT I LOVE IT. WHAT IS THE HISTORY
OF THE ONION SOUP? AH, THE ONION SOUP IS SOMETHING
YOU EAT MORE IN THE WINTERTIME.

BECAUSE, YOU KNOW, IT WAS
TO WARM UP THE EMPLOYEES. OF THE CENTRAL MARKET
DURING THE NIGHTTIME. I EAT ONION SOUP
ALL YEAR. I KNOW, YOU GUYS, AMERICANS,
ARE EATING EVERYTHING.

ALL YEAR ROUND. [ Laughter ] <i> Merci,</i> I THINK. THIS IS ACTUALLY
THE MAIN COURSE, <i> plate principal</i> IN FRENCH. <I> Plate principal.</I> <i> Plate principal.</I> OKAY, THE PRINCIPAL
PLATE.

ABSOLUTELY, YES. OKAY, STEAK TARTARE. STEAK TARTARE, YES. VERY FAMOUS.

DO YOU KNOW WHAT
IT IS MADE OF? NO. IT’S FRESH RAW BEEF. THIS IS RAW BEEF? RAW BEEF. VERY FRESH.

THE SPICE COMES FROM
THE WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE, THE KETCHUP, THE MUSTARD,
THE TABASCO, SALT, PEPPER. AND THE YOLK OF AN EGG, AND THEN YOU JUST MIX IT
ALL TOGETHER WITH THE BEEF. DO YOU LIKE IT? YES, I LOVE IT. YOU’VE INTRODUCED ME
TO SOMETHING NEW.

THIS ONE IS<i> SO</i> GOOD. I CAN’T BELIEVE IT. I’M EATING RAW BEEF
AND IT TASTES GOOD. IT IS GOOD, HUH? WOW! ESPECIALLY WITH
SOME RED WINE.

M-HMM. SO WE ARE, YOU KNOW, HAVING
NOW THE CHEESE COURSE, WHICH IS VERY IMPORTANT. YOU DON’T END UP A MEAL
WITHOUT SOME CHEESE. AND BASICALLY, YOU KNOW, YOU
ORDER CHEESE TO FINISH THE WINE, AND THEN YOU ORDER MORE
WINE TO FINISH THE CHEESE.

IT’S A NICE CYCLE. OH, IT’S A VICIOUS CIRCLE. A VICIOUS CYCLE. AH, THIS IS DESSERT
TIME, RICK.

YOU’RE HAVING
crme brle, AND I HAVE CHOCOLATE. THIS IS SACRED, YOU
KNOW, FOR LUNCHTIME. TO STOP AT LEAST
AN HOUR. WE DON’T WORK.

LOOK AT THESE PEOPLE;
THEY’VE BEEN HERE FOREVER. YES, IT’S SACRED. ENJOY. OKAY.

SO THE COFFEE ALWAYS COMES
AFTER ALL OF THE FOOD? AFTER THE DESSERT, ALWAYS. WHAT IF YOU ASK FOR YOUR
COFFEE WITH THE MEAL? THEY WOULD SAY,
“YES, SURE,” BUT IT WOULD COME
AFTER THE MEAL. THEY DON’T WANT
TO BE RUDE. OKAY.

WHAT A MEAL. EXCELLENT, WASN’T IT? I’M HEADING FOR
THE ORSAY GALLERY. OH, GO AHEAD. I’M FINISHING
MY COGNAC.

<I> AU REVOIR.</I> BYE-BYE, RICK. <I> GETTING AROUND PARIS</i>
IS EASY ON THE METRO. <I> THE ORIGINAL STATIONS</i>
WERE ART NOUVEAU. <I> THIS NEW ONE CELEBRATES</i>
THE SYSTEM’S 100th BIRTHDAY.

<I> AND THE LATEST GENERATION</i>
SHOWS EUROPE’S COMMITMENT. <I> TO EVER-MORE-EFFICIENT</i>
PUBLIC TRANSIT. <I> THE TRAIN</i>
IS COMPLETELY AUTOMATED, <i> ALLOWING PASSENGERS TO WATCH</i>
THE TUNNEL COMING AT THEM. <I>FASTER THAN A TAXI CAN TAKE US,</i> <i> WE HURTLE BENEATH THE CITY</i>
TO OUR NEXT STOP.

<I> THE ORSAY GALLERY, FAMOUS</i>
FOR ITS MUCH-LOVED COLLECTION. <I> OF IMPRESSIONIST MASTERPIECES,</i>
FILLS AN OLD TRAIN STATION. <I> THE BUILDING ITSELF</i>
IS MAGNIFICENT. <I> TRAIN TRACKS USED TO GO</i>
RIGHT DOWN THE MIDDLE.

THE ART OF THE ORSAY TAKES YOU
FROM 1848 TO 1914. THIS IS THE TIME WHEN THE OLD
WORLD MEETS THE MODERN WORLD. IT’S CONSERVATIVE AND
REVOLUTIONARY, SIDE BY SIDE. <I> BEFORE THE IMPRESSIONISTS,</i> <i> 19th-CENTURY ARTISTS</i>
PAINTED IDEALIZED BEAUTY.

<I> THIS WAS CONSERVATIVE ART,</i> <i> POPULAR THROUGHOUT THE 1800s</i>
BECAUSE IT WAS… <I> SIMPLY BEAUTIFUL.</I> <i> CABANEL’S</i> BIRTH OF VENUS<i>
IS THE QUINTESSENCE OF BEAUTY.</I> <i> THE LOVE QUEEN</i>
RECLINES SEDUCTIVELY, <i> JUST BORN FROM THE FOAM</i>
OF A WAVE. <I> AT THE TIME,</i>
*** WAS CONSIDERED DIRTY. <I> AND COULD BE EXALTED ONLY</i>
IN A MORE PURE AND DIVINE FORM.

<I> BUT WHILE MAINSTREAM ARTISTS</i>
CRANKED OUT. <I> THESE IDEAL BEAUTIES,</i>
A REVOLUTIONARY NEW BREED. <I> OF ARTIST WAS PAINTING</i>
A HARSHER REALITY. <I> CROSS THE TRACKS AND YOU FIND</i>
THE REALISTS.

<I> IN</i> THE PAINTER’S STUDIO,<i>
GUSTAVE COURBET TAKES US</i> <i> BEHIND THE SCENE</i>
AT THE PAINTING OF A GODDESS. <I> THE MODEL, NOT A GODDESS</i>
BUT A REAL WOMAN, <i> TAKES A BREAK FROM POSING</i>
TO WATCH COURBET AT WORK. <I> ORDINARY PEOPLE MILL ABOUT.</I> <i> THE LITTLE BOY SEEMS</i>
TO ADMIRE THE ARTIST, <i> ALREADY NOTORIOUS</i>
FOR HIS NONCONFORMITY. NO ONE WOULD SHOW
COURBET’S WORK, SO HE PUT ON HIS OWN ART SHOW.

HE BUILT A LITTLE SHACK
IN THE CENTER OF TOWN. AND HUNG HIS PAINTINGS,
BASICALLY THUMBING HIS NOSE. AT THE SHOCKED PUBLIC
AND HIS CONSVATIVE CRITICS. <I> EDOUARD MANET RUBBED REALISM</i>
IN THE PUBLIC’S FACE, <i> AND THEY HATED IT.</I> <i> MANET’S **** DOESN’T</i>
GLOSS OVER ANYTHING.

<I> THE POSE IS CLASSIC, BUT THE</i>
SHARP OUTLINES AND HARSH COLORS. <I> ARE NEW AND SHOCKING.</I> <i> HER HAND IS A CLAMP;</i> <i> HER STARE, DEFIANT.</I> <i> IGNORING THE FLOWERS</i>
HER SERVANT BRINGS. <I> FROM HER LAST CUSTOMER,</i> <i> THIS PROSTITUTE LOOKS OUT</i>
AS IF TO SAY, <i> “NEXT.”</I> <i> IT’S AROUND 1880,</i>
AND MANET AND HIS RAT PACK. <I> OF CONSERVATIVELY DRESSED</i>
RADICALS GATHERED IN PARIS, <i> PUSHING THE CREATIVE ENVELOPE.</I> <i> IT’S TIME FOR THE REVOLUTION</i>
OF IMPRESSIONISM TO BEGIN.

<I> IMPRESSIONISM INITIATED</i>
THE GREATEST CHANGE IN ART. <I> SINCE THE RENAISSANCE.</I> <i> NOW, ARTISTS WERE FREE</i>
TO DELVE INTO THE WORLD. <I> OF COLORS, LIGHT</i>
AND FLEETING IMPRESSIONS. <I> THEY FEATURED EASYGOING,</i>
OPEN-AIR SCENES, <i> CANDID SPONTANEITY AND,</i>
ALWAYS, THE PLAY OF LIGHT.

<I> IMPRESSIONISTS MADE</i>
THEIR CANVASES SHIMMER. <I> BY AN INNOVATIVE TECHNIQUE.</I> <i> RATHER THAN MIXING COLORS</i>
TOGETHER ON A PALATE, <i>THEY APPLIED THE COLORS IN DABS</i>
SIDE BY SIDE ON THE CANVAS. <I> AND LET THESE MIX</i>
AS THEY TRAVELED TO YOUR EYE. <I> UP CLOSE, IT DOESN’T WORK;</i> <i> BUT MOVE BACK, AND</i> voil! <I> CLAUDE MONET IS CALLED</i>
“THE FATHER OF IMPRESSIONISM.” <I> FOR HIM, THE PHYSICAL SUBJECT</i>
WAS NOW ONLY THE RACK.

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<I> UPON WHICH TO HANG</i>
THE LIGHT, SHADOWS AND COLORS. <I> AUST RENOIR CAUGHT PARISIANS</i>
LIVING AND LOVING. <I> IN THE AFTERNOON SUN.</I> <i> DAPPLED LIGHT</i>
WAS HIS SPECIALTY. <I> IN THIS PAINTING, YOU CAN</i>
ALMOST FEEL THE SUN’S WARMTH.

<I> AND SMELL THE POWDER</i>
ON THE WOMEN’S FACES. <I> EVEN THE SHADOWS</i>
ARE CAUGHT UP IN THE MOOD. <I> EVERYTHING’S DANCING.</I> <i> RENOIR PAINTS A WALTZING BLUR</i>
TO CAPTURE, <i> NOT THE PHYSICAL DETAILS,</i>
BUT THE INTANGIBLE CHARM. <I> OF A RESTAURANT</i>
ON PARIS’S MONTMARTRE.

<I> MONTMARTRE,</i>
A PARISIAN HILL CROWNED. <I> BY THE DRAMATIC NEO-BYZANTINE</i>
SACRE COEUR CHURCH, <i> WAS FAMOUS FOR THE AMBIANCE</i>
CAPTURED BY THE IMPRESSIONISTS. <I> A BLOCK AWAY,</i>
THE PLACE du TERTRE IS JUMBLED. <I> WITH ARTISTS…AND TOURISTS.</I> <i> IF YOU REALLY TRY,</i>
YOU CAN ALMOST IMAGINE.

<I> RENOIR, VAN GOGH AND PICASSO,</i>
WHO CAME HERE A CENTURY AGO, <i> POOR, CAREFREE</i>
AND SEEKING INSPIRATION. <I> BACK THEN, LIFE</i>
HERE ON MONTMARTRE. <I> WAS A WORKING-CLASS COMMOTION</i> <i> OF CAFES, BISTROS</i>
AND DANCE HALLS. <I> PAINTERS CAME HERE FOR THE LOW</i>
RENT AND READY joie de vivre.

<I> TO GETWAY</i>
FROM ALL THE TOURISTS, <i> SIMPLY WALK THE BACK STREETS,</i> <i> WHERE A BIT OF MONTMARTRE’S</i>
VILLAGE CHARM SURVIVES. <I> AH, THE STEPS OF SACRE COEUR.</I> <i> THIS IS A PLACE WHERE</i>
LOCALS AND TRAVELERS ALIKE. <I> CONGREGATE TO MARVEL AT PARIS,</i>
OR EACH OTHER. <I> FROM HERE, THE “CITY OF LIGHT”</i>
FANS OUT AT YOUR FEET.

<I> YOUR PARISIAN EXPERIENCE</i>
IS A BLEND OF GREAT MUSEUMS, <i> FINE FOOD AND CHARACTERISTIC</i>
NEIGHBORHOODS. <I> THE LATIN QUARTER IS THE CORE</i>
OF THE LEFT BANK, <i> AS THE SOUTH SIDE</i>
OF THE SEINE RIVER IS KNOWN. <I> THIS HAS LONG BEEN THE CITY’S</i>
UNIVERSITY DISTRICT. <I> IN FACT,</i>
THE UNIVERSITY OF PARIS, <i> A LEADING UNIVERSITY</i>
IN MEDIEVAL EUROPE, <i> WAS FOUNDED HERE</i>
IN THE 13th CENTURY.

BACK THEN,
THE VERNACULAR LANGUAGES, LIKE FRENCH AND GERMAN,
WERE CRUDE, GOOD ENOUGH TO HANDLE
YOUR BASIC NEEDS. BUT FOR HIGHER LEARNING,
ACADEMICS, LIKE THIS GUY, SPOKE AND CORRESPONDED
IN LATIN. UNTIL THE 1800s,
FROM SICILY TO SWEDEN, LATIN WAS THE LANGUAGE
OF EUROPE’S EDUCATED ELITE. AND PARISIANS CALLED
THIS UNIVERSITY DISTRICT.

“THE LATIN QUARTER” BECAUSE
THAT’S THE LANGUAGE THEY HEARD. ON THE STREETS. <I> TODAY, ANY REMNANT</i>
OF THAT LATIN IS BURIED. <I> BY A TOURISTY TABOULI</i>
OF ETHNIC RESTAURANTS.

<I>STILL, IT REMAINS A GREAT PLACE</i>
TO GET A FEEL. <I> FOR THE TANGLED CITY,</i>
BEFORE THE NARROW LANES. <I> WERE REPLACED BY WIDE, MODERN</i>
BOULEVARDS IN THE 19th CENTURY. <I> THE SCHOLARLY AND ARTSY PEOPLE</i>
OF THIS QUARTER.

<I> BREWED UP A NEW RAGE,</i>
PARIS’S CAFE SCENE. <I> BY THE TIME OF THE REVOLUTION,</i>
THE CITY’S COUNTLESS CAFES. <I> WERE THE HAUNT OF POLITICIANS</i>
AND PHILOSOPHERS, <i> WHO PLOTTED A BETTER FUTURE</i>
AS THEY SIPPED THEIR COFFEE. <I> AND THE CAFE SOCIETY REALLY</i>
TOOK OFF IN THE EARLY 1900s <i> AS THE WORLD’S LITERARY</i>
AND ARTISTIC AVANT-GARDE.

<I> CONVERGED ON PARIS.</I> <i> IN NOW-FAMOUS CAFES</i>
ALONG BOULEVARD ST.GERMAIN. <I> AND BOULEVARD ST. MICHEL,</i>
FREE THINKERS LIKE HEMMINGWAY, <i> LENIN AND JEAN PAUL SARTRE</i>
ENJOYED THE CREATIVE FREEDOM. <I> THESE HANGOUTS ENGENDERED.</I> WITH ITS CAFE
AND UNIVERSITY SCENE, PARIS HAD LONG BEEN A LAUNCH PAD
FOR BOLD NEW IDEAS.

IN THE 18th CENTURY,
GROUND-BREAKING POLITICAL. AND SOCIAL THINKING
BY FRENCH PHILOSOPHERS. LIKE VOLTAIRE AND ROUSSEAU
USHERED IN. “THE AGE OF ENLIGHTENMENT.” LATER, THIS ENLIGHTENMENT
PROVIDED THE FRENCH REVOLUTION.

WITH A PHILOSOPHICAL BASIS, AND IT GAVE
THE AMERICAN CONSTITUTION. MANY OF ITS BASIC PRINCIPLES. <I> PARIS HONORS ITS INTELLECTUAL</i>
AND CULTURAL HEROES. <I> WITH TOMBS AND MEMORIALS</i>
IN ITS NEO-CLASSICAL PANTHEON.

<I> IT LOOKS LIKE</i>
AN ANCIENT TEMPLE, <i> BUT IT’S ONLY</i>
ABOUT 250 YEARS OLD, <i> FROM THE TIME</i>
OF THE ENLIGHTENMENT. DURING THE ENLIGHTENMENT. AND THE AGE OF REVOLUTION
WHICH FOLLOWED, EVERYTHING WAS SUBJECTED
TO WHAT WAS CALLED. “THE TEST OF REASON.” IF IT WASN’T LOGICAL,
IT WAS TOSSED OUT.

NOTHING WAS SACRED. THE VERY NOTION OF ROYALTY
WAS CHALLENGED. AND CHURCHES WERE TURNED
INTO TEMPLES OF REASON. <I> EVEN THE USE OF CITY LAND</i>
FOR CEMETERIES, AS YOU LEARN.

<I> AT THE CATACOMBS OF PARIS,</i>
WAS REJECTED. <I> THE SIGN READS, “HALT!</I>
THIS IS THE EMPIRE OF DEATH.” <I> IT KICKS OFF A ONE-MILE HIKE</i>
YOU WON’T SOON FORGET. <I> THE ANONYMOUS BONES OF SIX</i>
MILLION PERMANENT PARISIANS. <I> LINE FORMER LIMESTONE QUARRIES</i>
DEEP UNDER THE STREETS.

<I> IN 1785, PARIS DECIDED TO MAKE</i>
ITS CONGESTED CITY. <I> MORE SPACIOUS AND SANITARY</i>
BY EMPTYING THE CEMETERIES, <i> WHICH TRADITIONALLY</i>
SURROUNDED CHURCHES, <i>INTO THIS LABYRINTHINE OSSUARY.</I> <i> FOR DECADES, PRIESTS LED</i>
CEREMONIAL PROCESSIONS. <I> OF BLACK-VEILED, BONE-LADEN</i>
CARTS INTO THE QUARRIES, <i> WHERE THE BONES WERE CAREFULLY</i>
AND ARTISTICALLY STACKED. <I> AS MUCH AS 80 FEET DEEP.</I> <i> EACH TRANSFER WAS FINISHED</i>
WITH A PLAQUE IDENTIFYING.

<I> FROM WHICH CHURCH</i>
THE BONES CAME. <I> AND THE DATE THEY ARRIVED.</I> <i> WHILE THERE IS HISTORY IN DEM</i>
BONES, THE CARNAVALET MUSEUM, <i> FILLING A LAVISH</i>
OLD ARISTOCRATIC MANSION, <i> IS</i> THE<i> BEST PLACE TO SORT</i>
THROUGH THE STORY OF PARIS. PRE-REVOLUTIONARY FRANCE
HAD A GOVERNMENT. BY, FOR AND OF THE WEALTHY.

AND AS THE RICH GOT
RICHER AND RICHER, PEOPLE WHO LIVED IN FABULOUS
MANSIONS LIKE THIS. BECAME BLIND TO THE GROWING GAP
BETWEEN THE HAVES AND HAVE-NOTS. IN THEIR COUNTRY. <I>LOUIS THE 14th, A.K.A.

“THE SUN</i>
KING,” WAS THE ULTIMATE KING. <I> BACK WHEN PEOPLE</i>
ACCEPTED THE NOTION. <I> THAT A FEW WERE BORN TO RULE</i>
AND BE RICH. <I> WHILE MOST WERE BORN TO BE</i>
RULED AND TAKEN ADVANTAGE OF.

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<I> ROOM AFTER ROOM SHOWS THE</i>
OPULENCE OF THE UPPER CLASSES. <I> IN THE AGE LEADING UP</i>
TO THE REVOLUTION. <I>LOUIS THE 14th, WHO ENJOYED THE</i>
LUXURY BUT ANTICIPATED TROUBLE, SAID, “Aprs moi, le deluge;<i>
AFTER ME, THE FLOOD.”</I> <i> THE HEART OF THE MUSEUM</i>
FEATURES THAT deluge, <i> WHICH HIT WHEN THIS MAN,</i>
LOUIS THE 16th, WAS KING. <I> THE FRENCH REVOLUTION</i>
WAS KICKED OFF.

<I> WITH THE STORMING</i>
OF THE BASTILLE PRISON. <I> SUPPORTING THE ANGRY MASSES,</i> <i> THE LIBERAL WING</i>
OF THE GOVERNMENT. <I> TOOK MATTERS</i>
INTO ITS OWN HANDS, <i> DECLARING IT WOULDN’T QUIT</i> <i> UNTIL THE PEOPLE</i>
HAD A CONSTITUTION. <I> IT WAS</i> Vive la Nation, libert, egalit,
AND fraternit, <i> UNTIL THE PEOPLE LITERALLY</i>
BEHEADED THE KING AND QUEEN.

THE PLACE de la REVOLUTION,
OR REVOLUTION SQUARE. IT WAS HERE THAT
THE NEWFANGLED GUILLOTINE, CONSIDERED A HUMANE FORM
OF EXECUTION IN ITS DAY, WAS SET UP. AND IT WAS HERE THAT MARIE
ANTOINETTE, LOUIS THE 16th AND OVER 2,000 OTHERS WERE MADE
A FOOT SHORTER AT THE TOP. <I> ACCORDING TO THIS PAINTING,</i> <i> IT TOOK THREE TO RUN</i>
THE GUILLOTINE: <i> ONE TO MANAGE THE BLADE,</i> <i> ONE TO CATCH THE BLOOD</i> <i> AND ONE TO HOLD THE HEAD –</i> <i> IN THIS CASE,</i>
OF MARIE ANTOINETTE — <i> UP TO THE CROWD.</I> <i> TODAY, PARIS’S VAST</i>
REVOLUTION SQUARE IS CALLED.

<I> PLACE de la CONCORDE,</i>
PLACE OF HARMONY. <I> THE GUILLOTINE IS LONG GONE</i> <i> AND ITS CENTERPIECE</i>
IS AN EGYPTIAN OBELISK. THE KING AND QUEEN
WERE BEHEADED. BY A STARK
AND EGALITARIAN GOVERNMENT.

BUT THE FRENCH LOVE OF FINE
LIVING COULDN’T BE KEPT DOWN. THE 19th CENTURY WAS
A BOOM TIME FOR PARIS. THE ENTIRE CITY WAS BEAUTIFIED. WITH GRAND NEW BOULEVARDS
AND FANCY ARCHITECTURE.

IT WAS AN EXUBERANT
AGE OF MONEY. IF YOU HAD IT, YOU FLAUNTED IT. <I> FROM THE PLACE de la CONCORDE,</i>
THE CHAMPS ELYSES — <i> ONCE A ROYAL CARRIAGEWAY, NOW</i>
EUROPE’S GRANDEST BOULEVARD — <i> LEADS TO THE ARC de TRIOMPHE.</I> <i> THE ARCH WAS DEDICATED</i>
TO THE VICTORY OF THE PEOPLE. <I>AND THEIR REPUBLIC, THE TRIUMPH</i>
OF FRENCH NATIONALISM.

<I> A GLIMPSE OF THE DECADENCE</i>
OF PARIS’S BEAUTIFUL AGE, <i> OR</i> belle poque,<i> IS ENJOYED</i>
ALONG THE CHAMPS ELYSES. <I> PARIS’S OLD OPERA HOUSE,</i> <i>THE GRAND PALACE OF THIS GILDED</i>
AGE, WAS FINISHED IN 1875. <I> THE REAL SHOW WAS</i>
BEFORE AND AFTER, <i> WHEN THE ELITE OF PARIS,</i>
OUT TO SEE AND BE SEEN, <i> STRUTTED THEIR ELEGANT STUFF</i>
IN THE EXTRAVAGANT LOBBIES. <I> THINK OF THE GRAND MARBLE</i>
STAIRWAY AS A THEATER ITSELF, <i> FILLED WITH PARIS’S</i>
BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE.

<I> THE ACTUAL THEATER IS A PALACE</i>
OF PLUSH AND ORNATE SEATING. <I> ABOVE IT ALL,</i>
A DELIGHTFUL CEILING, <i> PAINTED BY MARC CHAGALL</i>
IN THE 1960s, <i> FROLICS AROUND AN EIGHT-TON</i>
CHANDELIER. <I> NEARBY, THE JACQUEMART-ANDR</i>
MUSEUM. <I> FILLS A 19th-CENTURY MANSION</i>
OFFERING THE PUBLIC.

<I> A RARE, ARISTOCRATIC</i>
OPEN HOUSE. <I> EDOUARD ANDR AND HIS WIFE</i>
NELIE JACQUEMART. <I> SPENT THEIR LIVES AND FORTUNE</i> <i> DESIGNING, BUILDING</i>
AND DECORATING. <I> THIS INCREDIBLE MANSION.</I> <i> I’M ENJOYING A TOUR BY ONE</i>
OF THE MUSEUM’S FINE GUIDES, <i> CIARA.</I> BECAUSE, YOU KNOW,
THEY HAD NO CHILDREN, THEY HAD A LOT OF MONEY AND
THEY USED TO TRAVEL A LOT, AND THEN THEY’D BRING
MANY SOUVENIRS.

SO THESE ARE SOUVENIRS? EXACTLY. WHAT’S THIS? THAT’S THE MUSIC ROOM. <I> YOU CAN ALMOST IMAGINE</i>
THE CLATTER OF JEWELRY. <I> MIXING WITH THE CHAMBER MUSIC</i> <i> AS EDOUARD AND NELIE</i>
THREW A PARTY.

THIS IS
THE ITALIAN ROOM. EXACTLY, BECAUSE
THEY TRAVELED IN ITALY. THEY LOVED ITALIAN ART
AND THEY BROUGHT PAINTINGS. OF BELLINI, BOTTICELLI,
MANTEGNA, CARAVAGGIO.

<I> AND TIEPOLO, WHOSE FRESCO</i>
GRACES THE MANSION’S LOBBY. AND THIS IS THE BEDROOM. SO THE MONSIEUR AND
MADAME LIVED HERE? YES, BUT THIS WAS THE ROOM
OF MADAME,<i> chambre</i> OF MADAME. SO THEY HAD TWO
DIFFERENT BEDROOMS? EXACTLY, THAT’S
NELIE JACQUEMART.

<I> AND THIS WAS</i>
EDOUARD’S BEDROOM, <i> COMPLETE WITH A DELUXE</i>
BATHROOM. <I> FOR MORE OF THE DECADENCE</i>
OF THAT AGE, <i> CHECK OUT THE RITZY SHOPS.</I> <i> IT’S RITZY IN THE TRUE SENSE,</i> <i> SINCE THEY CLUSTER</i>
AROUND THE ORIGINAL RITZ HOTEL. <I> ENJOY THE LUXURY</i>
OF THIS NEIGHBORHOOD. <I> BY WINDOW SHOPPING,</i>
OR, AS THE FRENCH SAY, faire du lche-vitrines,<i>
WINDOW LOOKING.</I> <i>ACTUALLY, TODAY’S PARIS THRIVES</i>
WITH ORDINARY PEOPLE.

<I> THE GOOD LIFE</i>
FEELS ACCESSIBLE TO ALL, <i> AND IN THE SPIRIT</i>
OF FRANCE’S REVOLUTION, <i> THE GOVERNMENT TRULY</i>
SEEMS TO WORK FOR THE PEOPLE. <I> WHILE THE STUNNING</i>
GEORGE POMPIDOU CENTER. <I> HOLDS ONE OF THE WORLD’S</i>
TOP MODERN ART COLLECTIONS, <i> MOST PARISIANS ARE HAPPY</i>
JUST TO HANG OUT IN FRONT. <I> AND APART FROM ALL ITS</i>
WORLD-CLASS ATTRACTIONS, <i> MILLIONS OF PEOPLE</i>
CALL THIS CITY SIMPLY HOME.

<I> NEIGHBORHOODS ENJOY</i>
FIRST-CLASS PUBLIC TRANSIT, <i> AND IF A TRAIN LINE’S</i>
DECOMMISSIONED, <i> IT’S PUT TO GOOD USE WITH ITS</i>
ARCHES HOUSING COLORFUL SHOPS. <I> AND THE ELEVATED TRACK MADE</i>
INTO A LONG, SKINNY PARK. <I> THE PROMENADE PLANTE</i>
IS POPULAR. <I> FOR JOGGING OR STROLLING</i> <i> OR JUST A PEACEFUL BREAK</i>
FROM THE CITY.

<I> THERE’S A TIME-HONORED FINESSE</i>
TO PARISIAN LIFE, <i> A COMFORTABLE RHYTHM</i>
WITH KISSES ON THE CHEEK, <i> NEIGHBORHOOD STREET MARKETS</i> <i> AND FAMILIAR FACES</i>
AT THE CORNER CAFE. WHETHER YOU VISIT
FOR ITS BLOCKBUSTER MONUMENTS, ITS CAPTIVATING HISTORY. OR THE SIMPLE DELIGHTS
OF A CAFE, PARIS JUST MIGHT
STEAL YOUR HEART. THANKS FOR JOINING US.

I’M RICK STEVES. UNTIL NEXT TIME,
KEEP ON TRAVELIN’. AU REVOIR..

Article written by admin

im a travel guide

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